Nomos Club Neomatik Signalblau

January 12, 2018

Nomos Club Neomatik Signalblau

After a string of weeks highlighting particularly bold and outlandish creations from brands like Urwerk and Romain Gauthier, we couldn’t help but think we were due for something a little more grounded to feature as our Watch of the Week. Enter Nomos and the latest, most colorful rendition of the Club Neomatik ($3,550). Nomos Glashütte is one of the rare breeds of watchmaking, known for crafting simple and no-nonsense timepieces that deliver immense value at prices unmatched by much of the Swiss watch industry.

While Nomos is not in the game of building high complications—their collections include nothing but hand-wound and self-winding timepieces that display nothing more than time and date—they do produce the majority of their calibers in-house, and they adhere to strict design sensibilities that have fueled a loyal cult following amongst watch enthusiasts worldwide. In this week’s installment of Watch of the Week, we take a hands-on look at the Nomos Club Neomatik in an attention-grabbing blue hue, dubbed Signalblau.

It’s always impressive to see what a significant impact a dial color can have on an otherwise conservative timepiece. The Neomatik’s matte blue dial is reminiscent of the warm Mediterranean and contrasts nicely with the crisp, white indices and hands and the red hand on its running-seconds subdial. Known for its obsession with detail, Nomos has finished the date-wheel disc in a matching shade of blue, avoiding the far-too-common white date square that detracts attention on countless watches in all categories.

The 41.5 mm stainless-steel case of the Neomatik is highly polished and features an exhibition caseback that exposes the Nomos caliber DUW 5101 and its skeletonized winding rotor. Measuring 9.78 mm thick, it is by no means the slimmest watch on the market—though in the same breath, it is an entirely acceptable thickness for a timepiece meant to be worn under a shirt cuff on a regular basis.

The Nomos caliber DUW 5101 is manufactured in-house and designed as a simple workhorse caliber above all else. A 42-hour power reserve, Incabloc shock protection, and hacking seconds are all features you would equally find in base calibers supplied by Vaucher Fleurier (or even Sellita or ETA). However, we will say that the DUW 5101 boasts a level of finishing more on par with the former. At a functional level, one of the pleasant surprises from the Club Neomatik is its water resistance. The piece carries a depth rating of 200 meters (656 feet), and thanks to its plain nylon strap, there’s absolutely no risk of damage for anyone who decides to hit the water with the piece strapped on their wrist.

You may be quick to think the Club Neomatik Signalblau is a bit more of a “summer watch”; however, even a punchy shade of blue like this one can be passed off year-round in the right context. Pairing it with attire in black and white, or even tan and light gray, will let the dial stand out without coming across like you still wish you were at the beach. That said, if you’re chasing warm weather this fall/winter, it will also make a solid travel companion.

On the wrist, it is worth noting that the 41.5 mm case wears a fair bit larger than most pieces with the same measurements. Its profile is quite flat, and its lugs are somewhat long, meaning on small- to medium-sized wrists it may be a bit much if you’re expecting something more compact. Thankfully, Nomos does offer the Club Neomatik (as well as much of its model range) in a variety of sizes, ensuring there’s an appropriate variant for all wrists.

Both in the United States and abroad, buyers have a couple of options. Nomos has a reasonable retail presence in brick-and-mortar stores around the globe, but for those not wanting to venture out of the house, the brand also has its own e-commerce portal offering free shipping, secure payment, and a 30-day return policy. With so many brands continuing to push back on the digital retail front, we have to give Nomos credit for being a relatively early adopter of online sales.